Sapphire Watch – No Misnomer Here!

 Sapphire – No Misnomer Here!

Watch enthusiasts are certainly familiar with the term "sapphire crystal," as the vast majority of well-known watch models—except for vintage-inspired pieces—almost universally feature this material in their specifications. This raises three key questions:

1. Is sapphire valuable?

2. Is a "sapphire crystal" watch glass really made of sapphire?

3. Why use sapphire?

In reality, the sapphire used in watchmaking is not the same as the natural gemstone in the traditional sense. The correct term is "sapphire crystal" (sometimes called "sapphire glass"), which is a synthetic sapphire primarily composed of aluminum oxide (Al₂O₃). Since no coloring agents are added, synthetic sapphire is colorless.

From a chemical and structural perspective, there is no difference between natural and synthetic sapphire. However, compared to natural sapphire, synthetic sapphire is not particularly valuable.

The reason why major watch brands unanimously favor sapphire crystal for watch glasses isn’t just because it sounds premium—it’s mainly due to its exceptional properties:

- Hardness: Synthetic sapphire matches natural sapphire at 9 on the Mohs scale, second only to diamond, making it highly scratch-resistant (unlike acrylic, which can easily get scuffed).

- Durability: It is corrosion-resistant, heat-resistant, and highly thermally conductive.

- Optical Clarit: Sapphire crystal offers exceptional transparency, making it arguably the perfect material for modern watchmaking.

The use of sapphire crystal in watchmaking began in the 1960sand quickly became widespread. Over the following decades, it became the standard for modern watches, and today, it is practically the only choice in high-end horology.

Then, in 2011, sapphire once again became a sensation in the luxury watch industry when RICHARD MILLE unveiled the RM 056, featuring a fully transparent sapphire case—an unprecedented innovation in high-end watchmaking. Many brands soon realized that sapphire wasn’t just for watch crystals—it could also be used for cases, and it looked stunning.

Within just a few years, sapphire cases became a trend, evolving from clear transparency to vibrant colors, resulting in increasingly diverse designs. As technology advanced, sapphire-cased watches transitioned from limited editions to regular production models, and even core collections.

So today, let’s take a look at some of the sapphire-crystal-cased watches.

ARTYA

Purity Tourbillon

This Purity Tourbillon by Swiss independent watchmaker ArtyA features a highly skeletonized design and a transparent sapphire case, maximizing the visual impact of the tourbillon—just as its name suggests: pure tourbillon.

BELL & ROSS

BR-X1 Chronograph Tourbillon Sapphire

In 2016, Bell & Ross debuted its first sapphire watch, the BR-X1 Chronograph Tourbillon Sapphire, limited to just 5 pieces and priced at over €400,000—a true high-end statement. A year later, they released an even more transparent skeletonized version, the BR-X1 Skeleton Tourbillon Sapphire. Then, in 2021, they introduced the BR 01 Cyber Skull Sapphire, featuring their signature skull motif in a bold square case.

BLANCPAIN

L-Evolution

Strictly speaking, Blancpain’s L-Evolution Minute Repeater Carillon Sapphire doesn’t have a fully sapphire case, but its transparent sapphire bridges and side windows create a striking see-through effect—a "half-step" into sapphire cases.

CHANEL

J12 X-RAY

For the 20th anniversary of the J12, Chanel unveiled the J12 X-RAY. What makes this watch remarkable is that not only the case and dial are made of sapphire—the entire bracelet is too, achieving a fully transparent look that’s visually breathtaking.

CHOPARD

L.U.C Full Strike Sapphire

Released in 2022, Chopard’s L.U.C Full Strike Sapphire was the first minute repeater with a sapphire case. To maximize transparency, even the gongs are made of sapphire—a world-first innovation. The watch also earned the Poinçon de Genève (Geneva Seal), the first non-metal timepiece to do so. Limited to 5 pieces.

GIRARD-PERREGAUX

Quasar

In 2019, Girard-Perregaux introduced its first sapphire-cased watch, the Quasar, featuring its iconic "Three Bridges" design. Meanwhile, the Laureato Absolute collection debuted its first sapphire model in 2020, alongside the Laureato Absolute Tribute with a red transparent case—though not sapphire, but a new polycrystalline material called YAG (yttrium aluminum garnet).

GREUBEL FORSEY

30° Double Tourbillon Sapphire

Greubel Forsey’s 30° Double Tourbillon Sapphire stands out because both the case and crown are made of sapphire crystal. The manually wound movement, visible through the case, boasts four series-coupled barrels for 120 hours of power reserve. Priced at over $1 million, limited to 8 pieces.

JACOB & CO.

Astronomia Flawless

To fully showcase the JCAM24 manual-winding movement, Jacob & Co. created the Astronomia Flawless with a fully sapphire case. From every angle, the intricate movement appears to float in mid-air.

RICHARD MILLE

As the trendsetter in sapphire cases, RICHARD MILLE has mastered the material. Whether in men’s or women’s watches, or complicated timepieces, sapphire cases are a signature. Like carbon fiber, RICHARD MILLE also emphasizes color variations, making their sapphire watches ultra-trendy.

From sapphire crystals to sapphire cases, this material has become a symbol of high-end watchmaking innovation. Which sapphire watch is your favorite? Let us know!